Some think of jam-making as a cold-weather activity, one for the autumn and winter. But preserving is all about avoiding wastage and grabbing a glut: whenever there's plenty of something about, my preserving pan comes out.
You might think June's a bit early for a glut – but it depends what's on the go in the garden, or what's to be had for a keen price at the grocer's. There are some gorgeous ingredients for preserve-making available already. Mid-season gooseberries are fat, flavourful and juicy: combine ripe with slightly under-ripe berries for the best jams. Ialso love gooseberries in a smooth but tart curd (see recipe below), while a cooked, sieved puree makes a great base for a spicy fruit ketchup.
Strawberries are plentiful now, too, and I've been freezing them into vanilla-scented parfaits as one way to avoid wastage. I also won't get through the summer without making at least one batch of strawberry "fridge jam". This low-sugar, fast-cooked preserve has a fresher, fruitier flavour and softer set than standard jams; as well as dolloping it on to toast, I use it as a kind of fruity sauce. To make it, combine 1.5kg of lightly crushed strawberries with the juice of one lemon and 1kg jam sugar with pectin. After leaving this to sit for an hour, bring it to a rolling boil and keep it there for just five minutes before potting in sterilised jars. After opening, it will keep for about three weeks in the fridge.
Maincrop (ie, outdoor) rhubarb is well into its stride now and should be producing armfuls of sturdy stems – more than a weekly crumble and the odd fool can take care of. Itspenetrating flavour makes it awinner in sugar- and vinegar-heavy preserves such as chutneys, where it won't be overwhelmed. It makes a delicious jam as well, particularly when combined with ginger.
Gluts aren't only about fruit and veg: herbs, too, are often abundant around now, already in their summer flush and in need of avigorous cutting back to keep them tender and fresh-flavoured for the rest of the season. A herb-scented cordial is one lovely way to capture their aromatic flavours. And consider herb-scented sorbets: lemon verbena is one of my favourites, though the classic combo of lemon and mint also works beautifully.
Jams, jellies, chutneys, syrups, curds and the like always call for large quantities of the main ingredient. They're the perfect illustration of the neat sensibleness of cooking seasonally. If the supermarket seems too expensive, keep an eye out at the sort of place that has, shall we say, minimal overheads – I'm thinking roadside stalls and allotments – and you'll find the true overflow crops, perhaps for just pennies.
To ensure success, follow some basic preserving etiquette. First, measure and weigh your ingredients carefully and follow recipes closely – there's some science involved in preserving, and all instructions are there for a reason. Second, remember that cleanliness is paramount. Don't use very damaged or slightly mouldy produce, and always sterilise jars or bottles. This is very simple: just wash the jars or bottles and lids in very hot, soapy water, rinse them in equally hot, clean water, then put them in the oven at 120C/250F/gas mark ¼ for 20-30 minutes. This dries them and heats them up (hot preserves should go into hot jars), but also knocks on the head any lingering bacteria. Another sterilising method is to run the jars through a hot dishwasher cycle, then use them straight away, while still hot from the machine.
I know many keen cooks who, out of some curious sense that it's not their bag, have never given preserving a go. I also know that when they do, they are often instantly hooked.
Gooseberry curd
This is a little more subtle and complex than a pure lemon curd, with the floral flavour of the gooseberries dancing on the tastebuds. There's nothing better on a scone or hot breakfast pancakes. Makes about five small (250-300ml) jars.
500g gooseberries
100ml lemon juice
125g unsalted butter
450g granulated sugar
200ml strained beaten egg (around4-5 large eggs)
Sterilise some jars as above. Put the gooseberries in a pan with the lemon juice. Bring slowly to a simmer, stirring often, until the fruit starts to release its juice, then simmer gently for five to 10 minutes until the fruit has collapsed. Rub this mixture through a fine sieve to get athin, smooth gooseberry puree.
Put the puree, butter and sugar into a large basin over a pan of simmering water. Stir until the butter has melted and the mixture is smooth. Take off the heat and let it cool for a minute – you don't want it to be too hot when you pour in the eggs, or they will scramble. It should be cool enough that you can comfortably put your finger into it.
Pour in the strained beaten egg, whisking all the while. Return the pan to the heat and stir the mixture over the simmering water until thick and creamy and registering at least 82C on a sugar thermometer. This requires patience – it will take a good 10 minutes, probably more – but the curd is much less likely to get too hot and scramble than if you cooked it directly in a pan. If the curd does start to scramble, take it off the heat and whisk vigorously until smooth.
As soon as it has thickened, pour the curd into the hot jars and seal. Leave to cool before labelling. Usethe curd within four weeks; once opened, keep in the fridge and use within a week.
Lemon and mint cordial
A lovely, zingy cordial for summer drinks. Try it with soda or fizzy water and lots of ice. Makes 1.5 litres.
A couple of large bunches of mint – about 75g in total
Finely grated zest of 5 lemons, plus their juice (about 150ml in total), strained to remove pips and fibres
750g granulated sugar
Tear up the mint, stalks and all, and put into a large bowl with the lemon zest. Pour over a litre of boiling water and leave to infuse overnight, or at least for several hours. Sterilise some bottles with swing-top lids or screw tops (see introduction).
Line a sieve with a piece of muslin or clean, thin tea towel and place over a saucepan. Pour the minty, lemony liquid through the sieve, then gather up the corners of the cloth and twist them, so you squeeze every last drop of flavour out of the mint and lemon zest. Addthe strained lemon juice and the sugar, heat gently, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then bring to asimmer and cook for two minutes.
Use a funnel to pour the hot liquid into the hot, sterilised bottles. Seal the bottles and leave to cool before labelling. The cordial will keep for about six weeks in the fridge. If you want to keep it for longer, leave it to cool in the pan, pour into plastic bottles and freeze.
Rhubarb, apricot and ginger chutney
With its acidity and deep flavour, rhubarb makes a fantastic chutney – it's delicious with nutty cheddar in a sandwich. Makes five or six medium (300-400ml) jars, though you can double the quantities (in which case it will take longer to cook).
1kg rhubarb, cut into 3-4cm pieces
500g onions, peeled and chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
500g dried apricots, very roughly chopped – quarters or sixths is fine
350g golden granulated sugar
300ml cider vinegar
Finely grated zest of 2 large oranges
Juice of the oranges (about 200ml)
50g root ginger, peeled and finelygrated
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp salt
½ tsp finely ground black pepper
Put all the ingredients in a preserving pan. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for an hour and aquarter to an hour and a half, stirring often, particularly towards the end, when the thickened mixture might otherwise catch andburn.
The chutney is ready when it is rich and thick, exhibiting a geyser-like plopping, rather than a liquid simmering. Pull a wooden spatula through it – if you can see the base ofthe pan briefly, before the chutney comes together again, it'sready.
While the chutney is cooking, sterilise some jars and vinegar-proof lids. Put them in the oven towards the end of the chutney cooking time, so they are clean, dry and hot when you come to pot the chutney.
Pot into the hot jars, filling them right to the top and ensuring there are no air pockets. Seal at once and leave to cool before labelling. Leave for at least a month before opening, then keep in the fridge. Store unopened jars in a cool, dark place for up to two years.
